Some Customers Greenhouses

12′x20′ with 1′ bump up 8′ 1″ tall

Portable Greenhouse Sand Bags inside Portable 10×15 on asphalt

The Clean Look The Clean Look

This customer chose to go with a fiberglass end wall

10′x15′ Greenhouse

Ready for end walls. Note this house is standard height. A 1′ bump up is available

Stubs with bows and foundation frame 2 12×100 houses for a local nursery

Almost 3′ of Snow

This customer did an awesome job on his lean to greenhouse, attached to pole barns side wall !0′ deep and 20′ long

A10′x20′ in the middle of a neighborhood

My latest customers photo, looks like a 12×40 house

Looks like this customer is ground growing and container growing in their house

Nice end wall look. This house belongs next to a red barn

Note how many of the Greenhouses are right in these folks gardens

Very nice for a 10′x10′ house

 

 

Building A 10′x30′ Greenhouse Work in Progress

I have been working on this greenhouse for Emily Sean and Noah my wife’s daughter and her family for the last couple of days I have been taking pics. of each step. Here are a few of them.

Grass, kinda level and flat. 12" drop front to back. note the two beautiful redwood trees at the back of the greenhouse area

Stubs pounded into the ground. These stubs are a foot taller than my typical stubs. These allow for a house that is a foot taller than usual. 8'6" instead of 7'6"

 

Bow set, set into top of stubs. Not bolted in yet.

Knee brace and purlin attachments

2  36" wide panels, 49" opening left for the 48" doorThese plywood panels have been ripped down to 36″ for a 10′wide greenhouse. Use the 4′ wide panel for a 12′ wide house,

Sawzall the excess material off of the plywood from inside of the house.

Note the third run of 2x4s about 32″ above the ground. This is the bench rail. We will attach the benches to these.

Building A Greenhouse part3

This entry is part 3 of 7 in the series Building a Greenhouse

Stubs with bows and foundation frame

The above is a picture of how the frame foundation (the bottom 2x4s) hook together with the stubs and the bow sets. The stub is set in the ground, the 2×4 is laid on the outside of the stubs, you now drill through pre- drilled hole in the stub and through the 2×4. Then the bows are dropped down 6″ into the stubs with a clamp on them so they only drop down that 6″ and you drill back through the 2×4  from the outside going back through  the stub that now has the  bow in it. Bolt together and you are off your knees.

Next comes the knee braces, they are what keep your greenhouse from acting like an accordian  when the winds hit the end walls. On the picture above you can see the knee braces at the front of the greenhouse attached to the end bow and extending down at an angle to the foundation frame 2×4. You can see also that they are on the inside of the greenhouse and are attached with a self tapping sheet metal screw into the first bow and with a sheetrock screw into the 2×4 frame rail.

After the knee braces I attach the center purlin pipe at the center of the greenhouse at the top on the inside. Same idea. Use 1/2″ electrical conduit and attach to the bows with a 1 1/2″ 10 gauge self tapping screw. Then space the side purlins about 3′ off of the center purlin.  With the stubs in the ground  the foundation frame and bows bolted to the stubs and the knee braces and purlins installed it’s time to think about benches before starting the end walls.

As you can see in the picture above as well as the one below the 2×4 that I call the bench rail is attached to the bow sets about 33″ above the ground. They are attached with 2″ long 12 gauge self tappers.This height works best for me.

Now you drop the 2×4 or 2×6 end wall footer flat on the ground between the two end stubs. It should stick out past the end of the greenhouse by an inch or so. You will be setting your plywood on this footer and leaning it up against the end bow.

End wall First Panel

Note if you are building a 10′ wide house as shown here, you want to rip this panel down to 3′ wide.( Also note in this pic that there is a second 2×4 about 1′ above the foundation frame. This is for a greenhouse that is bumped up one foot). Now you attach the panel directly to the end bow with 1 1/2″ self tapping screws. Note the nailer in this pic also. This allows you to attach the plywood at the bottom of the sheet to the end wall footer board.  Now from the inside of the house you can set your sawzall or jig saw right on the bow turn it on and follow the bow down until the extra plywood falls off. You can see the piece of scrap behind the greenhouse in the last picture. Easy peasy.

More tomorrow on the end walls.

End wall panel cut flush with the end bow

Building A Greenhouse part 2

This entry is part 2 of 7 in the series Building a Greenhouse

10'x15' Greenhouse

The greenhouse above is a 10×15 that was installed for a customer. The installation took 6 hours. We have installed about 30 greenhouses so have gotten the time down. If you are installing your own there is no race with time though. If you take your time and plan the installation step by step you will make fewer mistakes.

First I like to find a fairly level spot that is going to be easy to access from your house.I have built greenhouses with every exposure, North to South East to West and any angle in between. If you face the ends North to South then the West wall can get pretty hot in the afternoon. I know there are some rules out there about orientation but I find that it’s easiest to locate it so it’s convenient  to use.,so orient it any way you want.

If you are starting with a grass area I would mow the grass as short as your mower goes then put down some ground cloth and start building. I have a lot of clay so I put down some 3/4″ gravel and put the cloth over that. Don’t use plastic under the house it just causes sitting water and problems with algae and fungus growth. The ground cloth drains very well.

Next find your four corners. You can use a long tape measure to find the diagonal distance between opposing corners. After finding the corners I will dig a hole with an auger or post hole digger. The hole doesn’t need to be more than 8″ in diameter, and just over 12″ deep. The stubs that go into the holes are  24″ long and have a hole drilled at 4″ from the top. With the holes at the corners ready I will place the stubs into the them so that they are plumb and so that the top is 6″ above grade. The holes in the stubs should be about 2″ above grade and facing each other across the front of the house. Then level the  front two stubs across the tops from one side of the house to the other. Now you can mix a 60pound bag of redi-mix and dump it into the holes. I then do the back two stubs leveling them across the tops also. I don’t try to level the stubs from front to back. I just run a string from front to back and pound the other stubs along that line on 5 foot centers.

Tomorrow we will discuss bolting the frame together.